Athens Points of Interest – Thissio
INDEX
Archaeological sites and museums
Places of interest outside Athens
Thissio
Thissio is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Athens, with few changes happening the last decades. It is located northwest of the Acropolis and is adjacent to Kerameikos and Monastiraki areas.
It has been inhabited since ancient times, as it has always been considered part of the center of the city. The ancient name of the area was “Meliti”. Initially archaeologists thought that the name derived from the Nymph Meliti – daughter of Mermyx (meaning ant) and grand daughter of Melanippos (meaning black horse) – but today it is believed that Meliti derived from the word “meli” or “melissa” (meaning honey and bee). In the area was also the tomb of Theseus.
The area got today’s name by a mistake, because a few hundred years back people thought that the nearby Temple of Hephaestus had the Labors of Theseus depicted on all its friezes, so everyone thought that it was a temple to Theseus. However, when archaeologists started studying the building, they realized that it is a temple devoted to Hephaestus and Athena, it does however have scenes of Theseus’ and Hercules’ Labors on its friezes.
As you can understand, despite the confusion about the name of the area both in ancient and recent times, it is regarded as an area were Theseus was worshipped. In fact, the streets where our building is are named after Theseus’ sons, Acamas and Demophon.
So, the area now is an elegant, quiet, traditional neighborhood, with low, beautiful buildings. Its main pedestrian street, Irakleidon str., is a picturesque street on which the old tram tracks are still preserved. The upper end, where Irakleidon meets Apostolou Pavlou str. is filled with lively cafes and restaurants, while as you go towards Piraeus str. and Kerameikos area you will find small cafes offering meze and raki. On Irakleidon street you will also find the Irakleidon museum.
One can easily go up the Hill of Nymphs to the National Observatory and reach Pnyx (a 5-10 minute walk from our building – 600 meters), which is considered the cradle of Democracy. It is where Athenians gathered in ancient times to discuss and vote for all matters concerning the city and it is where Perikles, Demosthenes and others spoke from, within sight of the Parthenon. It is also the spot from which you can take magnificent photos of the Acropolis.
From there you can follow the main trail inside the hill for about 200 meters to a small, picturesque church called Agios Dimitrios Loubardiaris (Saint Demetrios Loubardiaris – loubarda used to mean cannon during the Ottoman rule), which is right opposite of the main trail that leads to the Acropolis entrance. It is said that the Turks once wanted to bombard the church from the Acropolis to kill locals that had gathered to celebrate the name day of the Saint, but before lighting up their cannons there was a sudden storm and a thunder destroyed them. At the walls and other architectural elements of the church you will see the merging of ancient and newer building materials, while the latest renovation of the church was made during the 50’s.
Actually the whole Acropolis strolling area was landscaped and paved by a famous Greek architect named Dimitris Pikionis at that time, who had visualized a plan of connecting paths for accessing the Acropolis and points that offer interesting views to the area, also known as “The Grand Promenade”. By choosing to use materials that were scattered around from demolished buildings, marble stones and concrete, he managed to make a unique collage that perfectly fits the surroundings.
From Saint Demetrios you can follow the trail to the entrance of the Acropolis (about 400 meters – a 5 minute walk), but before visiting Athens’ most known monument you might want to get up to Areopagus hill (meaning Ares rock – just climb the metal staircase on your left while having Acropolis on your right), the place that functioned as court trying crimes. Again, this is a great spot to take a picture of the city too.
But let’s go back when you were on top the Hill of Nymphs. Instead of turning right towards Pnyx, you can turn left towards the main building of the National Observatory. In case you wonder, the brick column next to the smaller observatory was used to align the telescope to the four cardinal points. While you’ll be able to admire the dome of the main Observatory, probably you won’t be able to enter in its courtyard as it usually closed for the public, but it is said that Meton of Athens, an astronomer that lived in the 5th century BC, made his observations from that point. However, you can walk down the small alley along the fence of the Observatory, take a right at the Agia Marina church (and perhaps have a look inside if you are interested) and you’ll find yourself at the most lively part of Thissio. From there you can sip a coffee gazing at the Acropolis, or walk towards Monastiraki area. It is from here that “The Grand Promenade” starts, going towards the Acropolis.
Dining in the area:
There are several restaurants of good quality around. Those that are towards Monastiraki area tend to attract more tourists (while some offer nice views to the Acropolis), and those that are towards Petralona area are far less likely to have tourists (if any – but no Acropolis view from here). Keep in mind that most restaurants at Petralona are open only in the evening (usually from 7pm).
Towards Petralona, at the junction of Troon and Demophontos streets, and Troon and Kidantidon streets, you will find several restaurants and tavernas. It is a 7-10 minute walk from the apartment and you will surely find a restaurant of your liking. The area has a traditional Athenian neighborhood feeling, the restaurants have their tables not only inside but on sidewalks as well, and the food is very good. Some of the restaurants that are located there are:
Oikonomou taverna, at 41 Troon street: old-fashioned typical Greek taverna with casserole and oven baked dishes.
Chez Lucien, at 32 Troon street: a French restaurant right in the heart of Athens! Very friendly staff and delicious French cuisine.
Therapeftirio, at 41 Kidantidon street: mostly a fish taverna, excellent choice for sipping some ouzo and having a meze or small fish.
To tsipouradiko tou Apostoli (Apostolis’ tsipouro place), at 43 Troon street: Instead of ouzo you will try tsipouro which is like ouzo but without the anise, of course with the right meze next to it.
Blue Bamboo Thai restaurant, at 24 Kidantidon street: if you just craved some Thai food, this is it. Also serves nice cocktails.
Karderina at 67 Kallisthenous street, and Treli Rodia at 39 Kydantidon street: typical modern Greek cuisine.
At Thissio/Monastiraki area you’ll see a number of options as well. Some of them are:
Kuzina restaurant, at 9 Adrianou street. Modern Greek cuisine with exceptional Acropolis view from the terrace. 12 minutes on foot
The Underdog, at 8 Iraklidon street. All day café/bar, with international barista awards. Famous for its brunch, served from 10am. 7 minutes on foot.
Syn Athina, at 2 Iraklidon street. All day café/restaurant, also a wine bar. Marvelous view to the Acropolis from the roof top, a reservation might be needed. 7 minutes on foot.
To steki tou Ilia (Ilias’ place), at 7 Thesalonikis street. Traditional Greek tavern, mostly grilled meat, outside tables next to metro lines. 5 minutes on foot, open from noon.
Basmati Indian restaurant, at 28 Akamantos street: if you craved some Indian food. 4 minutes on foot.
Kafeneio Skales, at 2 Akamantos street, nice Greek meze, a 6 minute walk.
You will also find several restaurants at the lower part of Iraklidon street, without viewing the Acropolis but with tasty dishes.
Various information
Open-air cinemas:
Yes, you will find two open-air cinemas near the apartment (they operate from mid April to late October, depending on the weather). Both usually have old non-Greek films with Greek subtitles so you can enjoy a romantic night under the stars watching a movie.
One is called Zefyros, at 36 Troon street (8 minutes on foot) and the other is Cine Thisio, at 7 Apostolou Pavlou street (10 minutes on foot).
Tour guides:
If you’re looking for a tour guide, try Vicky or Danae from www.topostravel.com, their office is at Afroditis street in Plaka. They can arrange all kind of tours, from a couple of hours at Acropolis to private excursions.
Art gallery:
An art gallery couldn’t be missing from our surroundings. Chili art gallery is located at 13-15 Demophontos street, 2-3 minutes on foot.
Mini market:
Ok! Market, at 46 Trion Ierarchon street, 3 minutes on foot, open every day from 8am to 11pm.
Super market:
Market-In, at 33 Nileos street, 4 minutes on foot.
Bakery:
Just across the street opposite of the super market, 4 minutes on foot.
Bank:
Eurobank, at 8-10 Trion Ierarchon street, 3 minutes on foot.
Drug store:
At 57 Trion Ierarchon street, 3 minutes on foot.
Archaeological sites and museums:
(Some museums are closed on Mondays)
Acropolis museum , Acropolis, Theatre of Dionysos and Ancient Agora: The highlights of Athens. Don’t forget that the museum on Mondays closes at 4pm, and that you can have a late dinner in its restaurant on Fridays, although a reservation should be made.
Byzantine museum: the history of the Byzantine empire, from the 2nd century AD to 1453. How was the empire created, how it was divided to East and West, why it was invaded by Goths and Slavs. Also, take a look at how Christianity has changed over the years. Can be reached by metro, at Evangelismos station (blue line – 3 stops from the apartment) or a 40 minute walk from the apartment.
Cycladic art museum: a museum dedicated to ancient art found in Cyclades (a group of small islands amidst the Aegean sea), and other places in Greece and Cyprus. The artifacts date from the Bronze Age to the 4th century AD. If you’re interested in art then it’s a must. You will also see the statuette of the flute player, a distinguishing form of Cycladic art. Can be reached by metro, at Syntagma station (2 stop from the house), or a 35 minute walk from the house.
National archaeological museum: it is the largest archaeological museum in Greece, housing and protecting antiquities from all over the country. It also has several Egyptian antiquities. Can be reached by metro, get the green line from Thissio station and get off after two stops at Omonoia station, or a 40 minute walk from the apartment.
Numismatic museum: the history of money (coins), from the 6th century BC to the 20th century AD. Since the museum is rather small and situated close to the city center, it can be visited easily. Can be reached by metro, at Syntagma station (2 stops from the apartment).
Ancient and Roman Agora: covering a big area below the north slopes of Acropolis hill, the remains of Ancient and Roman Agora still bring awe. These places were the center of ancient Athens, with shops, temples and other buildings. Many monuments can be seen today, like the Tower of Winds (one of the oldest solar clocks), the Gate of Athena, the Stoa of Attalos (which now houses a small museum), the temple of Hephaestus. Can be reached within 15 minutes on foot from the apartment.
Kerameikos area: a vast excavation site right next to Monastiraki and Thissio. You can visit one nice hammam there, after you’re done with the antiquities. You can also see a really small part of river Iridanos, which once ran through the city. It is an 8 minute walk.
Islamic art museum: with exhibits from many areas (India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, the Middle East, Arabia, Egypt, North Africa, Sicily and Spain), it is a museum worth visiting. A 15 minute walk.
Other places of interest in Athens
Varvakeios food market
Located at Athinas street (named after goddess Athena), lies the biggest food market of the city. Built at 1886, thanks to the donations of Ioannis (John) Varvakis, has been operating since, housing more than 70 shops selling fish and meat. Right across the street, there is the fruit and vegetables market. Early in the morning you can see the elders shopping, always looking for the freshest goods, while after midday you can taste Greek food at 3-4 restaurants inside the meat market. These restaurants have been working for more than 40 years, serving anything from tripe soup to soutzoukakia and have served several celebrities of Greece like Melina Merkouri (actor and politician – died in 1994) and Andreas Papandreou (former PM – died in 1996). Don’t let the surroundings fool you, their food is of good quality and are visited by many locals. The one called “Ipiros” (Ήπειρος) is open till late at night (or early in the morning) and they specialize in different kinds of soups, especially patsas (soup made of pork’s feet and belly, with vinegar, garlic and sometimes hot peppers).
Be warned however that the distinctive smell of fresh meat and fish of the market is not always welcomed by all people…
Monastiraki flea market
At one end of Athinas street, close to Acropolis hill, is the Monastiraki square (meaning small monastery – named after the close-by church), recently renovated. The church was probably built between 9th to 11th century and is used by both Catholics and Orthodox. There you can see a small part of the river bed of Iridanos, one of the three rivers that once watered Athens. Iridanos springs from Lycabetus hill but because of the growing of the city, around 120 a.C., it was decided to cover and box the biggest part of the river. Now you can see it again at Kerameikos.
The big distinguishing building on one side of the square is the Monastiraki train station, built at 1895 in order to expand the train line from Peireus to Athens. Until then, the line stopped at Thisio station.
At Areos street, starting from Monastiraki square, there is another temple, this one dedicated to Muslims. It is the Tzistaraki mosque, built in 1759 from the Tzistaraki voivode. The mosque was once called “the lower fountain mosque” because of fountain that used to be nearby, while the whole area was called “the lower bazaar”. Today, the mosque is used as a museum of popular art.
Walking down the Monastiraki main street, called Hephaestus (another ancient greek god), passing along clothes and shoes stores, you will find Avisinias square on your right. During the day, this square is full of antiques (or recently made antiques…), lying down on pieces of cloth. It’s usually hard to walk by the things being sold and the crowd, but if you look hard enough you might find a good souvenir to take home. Right there you can find the Loukoumi vintage bar, it has a great view from its terrace. Monastiraki is a 15 minute walk from the apartment.
Kolonaki area: classy and nice area to walk to, with expensive shops. There you can find one of my favorite jewelry stores, Fanourakis (http://fanourakis.gr/). Also, you can use the funicular railway to go up to Lycabetus hill, where you can enjoy a coffee or lunch with a magnificent view of the city, all the way to the sea. A visit to Kolonaki area can be combined with a visit at the Byzantine museum, the Cycladic art museum or the Numismatic museum. Kolonaki’s main square is 40 minutes on foot or 10 minutes from Syntagma metro station.
Psirri and Gazi area: next to Monastiraki and Thissio area you will find most of the city’s nightlife, from small bars to nightclubs. The best hammam in the city is also there
Theatre of Herodes Atticus: an ancient theatre at the slopes of Acropolis, that still hosts several shows during the summer.
Places of interest outside Athens
Cape Sounio: There you will see Poseidon’s temple and enjoy a beautiful sunset. The myth says that Aegeas, father of the hero Thiseas, fell of the cliff when he saw his son’s ship in the horizon, sailing with black sails, thus giving his name to the Aegean sea. You can also have a swim and enjoy a meal at seaside tavernas. It should take you about 45 minutes by car to get there, depending on traffic.
Vouliagmeni Lake: located on the way to Sounio, this small lake is said to have healing powers, but all I’m sure of is that is has small fish that eat dead cells from your feet. It feels funny, it’s harmless and you end up with soft soles while children usually have a lot of fun. You can also enjoy a meal there. About 30 minutes by car.
Marathonas: This is the area where a huge battle between Greeks and Persians took place. When the Persians fled back to their ships, the Greek general noticed that the ships were not heading back, but instead were heading to the unguarded Athens. He then ordered a soldier to run back to Athens to warn everyone. The soldier ran as fast as he could, and right after reaching the city and warning the leadership, he died of exhaustion. That is how the Marathon race got its name. You can visit the local museum (this one also has a few Egyptian statues), the tomb of the warriors who died there, and go for a swim at the near-by beaches. About 45 minutes by car.
Epidauros: a small city about 130 kilometers from Athens, birthplace of Asclepius, god of medicine and healing. The rod of Asclepius, a snake-entwined staff, remains a symbol of medicine today. In Epidauros you will see the ancient theatre that is famous for its acoustics, which permit perfect intelligibility of unamplified spoken word from the stage to all 15,000 spectators, regardless of their seating. Of course, the theatre and the surrounding area is listed at the Unesco World Heritage site. Epidauros is about one and a half hour drive from Athens.
Mycenae: another archaeological site, famous for its Lion Gate. Although the area was inhabited from the Neolithic age, it hit its peak around 1350 BC, when fortifications were built in a style known as cyclopean, because the blocks of stone used were so massive that they were thought in later ages to be the work of the one-eyed giants known as the Cyclopes. Mycenae is about two hours from Athens, and can be combined with a visit to Epidauros.
Delphi
This is the place where Greece’s most known oracle was. The oracle had such an influence that even people from neighboring countries sought its advice. The area was said to be the “navel of the earth”, meaning the center of the world. Today one can visit the big archaeological site and the village of Delphi.
Shopping
The area between Ermou str, Stadiou str and Athinas str, forming a triangle, is the commercial district of the center of Athens. In Ermou str, starting from Syntagma square, you’ll find many chain stores like Zara, Mango, H&M and other similar clothes and shoes shops. Going down towards Athinas str, you’ll bump into Kapnikarea square, named after the homonymous church, which was built during the 11th century on the remains of an ancient temple, probably devoted to goddess Athena. From there, I suggest you take a right turn at Kalamiotou street, and turn left at Athinaidos street, where you’ll see a lot of textile shops. Just before you cross Aiolou street, you’ll find on your right hand the square of Agias Eirinis, with some interesting cafes and the renowned souvlaki of Kosta. If you’re into it, tell him to add some of his spicy red sauce….
From there you’re just a stones’ throw from Athinas street, where apart from the Varvakeios food market you’ll see many tool stores and some interesting buildings. Crossing Athinas street is Evripidou street. Let your nose guide you to all the herbs, spices and cold cuts shops. As for cold cuts, I strongly suggest Arapian, located at Evripidou 41. It usually is so crowded that you can’t miss it. Try pastourma (salted cow meat rounded with herbs – usually cumin, garlic and paprika) or apaki (smoked pork, marinated in vinegar). If you do get some pastourma, remember that it adds a distinctive smell in your sweat.
The last few years a restaurant has opened nearby, where you can sit and eat most of these delicacies, accompanied by some tsipouro or ouzo (local spirits). It’s name “Τα Καραμανλίδικα του Φάνη”, where you can also buy take away cold cuts (or even take them back home).
There, I am talking about food again… So let’s go back to shopping. If you fancy something more classy, then head to Kolonaki area, which starts from the Parliament (where the guards are) and goes all the way up to Lycabetus hill. On Panepistimiou street there is a big department store called “Attica”, with several brands like Burberry, CK, Replay, Ted Baker, etc. More expensive brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, etc have their stores on Voukourestiou street, once considered the most expensive street of the city. From there you can go up to Patriarchou Ioakeim street, the main shopping street of Kolonaki, with small, lovely boutique stores. You can also enjoy a coffee at the nearby cafes.
Attractions for children
If you go to see the guards change at Syntagma square, you can easily access the National Garden, a big area full of trees (and a few ancient ruins – history is inescapable in Athens), with two playgrounds, two cafes (rather expensive), a small pond and a few caged animals, like ducks, peacocks, goats and rabbits.
The Acropolis museum offers the chance for children to discover the exhibits. When you enter the museum ask for family activities, they offer different programs.
Next to the Acropolis museum, at 1 Kallisperi street there is a small playground that is full of children during the afternoons.
Museum of illusions, located at Monastiraki area, can offer a break from antiquities and help children enjoy their visit to Athens. https://www.museumofillusions.gr
Another playground is located at Jacqueline de Romilly square, right on Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian street from where you can enjoy your coffee gazing at the Acropolis while your child plays around. It is a 7 minute walk.
A museum that is suitable for children is Irakleidon museum at 16 Irakleidon street. It also has a branch at 37 Apostolou Pavlou street. (7 or 10 minutes on foot).